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The hardwood finisher : with rules and directions for finishing in natural colors and in antique, mahogany, cherry, birch, walnut, oak, ash, redwood, sycamore, pine and all other domestic woods, also miscellaneous rules for filling, staining, varnishing, polishing, dyeing, gilding and bronzing : together with hints on the preparation of woodwork for the finisher (1908)

New York : Industrial Publication Co. · leaf 22

An illustration from The hardwood finisher : with rules and directions for finishing in natural colors and in antique, mahogany, cherry, birch, walnut, oak, ash, redwood, sycamore, pine and all other domestic woods, also miscellaneous rules for filling, staining, varnishing, polishing, dyeing, gilding and bronzing : together with hints on the preparation of woodwork for the finisher, 1908, leaf 22
FINISHER. than usual in the blade, thus fitting it exactly for the purpose of a scraper. The temper of an ordinary saw blade is not usually hard enough. Provided that there is enough elasticity to “give” in the operator’s hands as it is being pushed along, the scraper should be nearly too hard for… … soon as it is applied to the work, leaving a coarse, jagged and utterly useless edge behind. Secondly, as to the proper formation of the burr edge. Having secured a suitable piece of steel, it should be laid on the bench, as shown in Fig 4, the edge of the scrape* projecting slightly beyond the edge

Wood finishing

Internet Archive · Getty Research Institute · Public domain (published before 1931). Free to use for anything.

More pictures from The hardwood finisher : with rules and directions for finishing in natural colors and in antique, mahogany, cherry, birch, walnut, oak, ash, redwood, sycamore, pine and all other domestic woods, also miscellaneous rules for filling, staining, varnishing, polishing, dyeing, gilding and bronzing : together with hints on the preparation of woodwork for the finisher

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